3/29/08 note: this pattern is also available as a PDF download from Ravelry. Click here to download it if you'd rather have it in that format!
7/3/07 note: there is an error in the pattern as it was originally posted, and the pattern below has been updated. If you have printed out the original version of the pattern, please note that the number of cast-on stitches has been changed from 70 to 68.
Specifics:
Size: 9 months to 1 year. This pattern works nicely with different size needles. I have found that size 5 needles make a good 0-3 month sweater, and size 6 needles make a good 3-6 month sweater. I've never tried it with size 8s, but I'd assume you could do a 12-18 month sweater with them. Just go one to two sizes down for your ribbing, whatever needles you use.
Gauge: 21 st. and 28 rows = 4" in stockinette with larger needles
Requirements:
Circular or straight needles, sizes US 5 and 7
DK-weight yarn (I used Filatura di Crosa Zara): MC (3 skeins), secondary colors A, B, and C (less than 50 yards each), scrap yarn in color D
Special instructions:
Seed stitch: over even number of stitches
Row 1: *k1, p1, rep from *
Row 2: *p1, k1, rep from *
M1: make one stitch, keeping pattern correct (this is important in the seed stitch section). In the seed stitch section, the easiest way to do this is to knit and purl or purl and knit (depending on the pattern) into the same stitch. In the stockinette section, the easiest and most invisible way to do this is to lift the right-hand side of the stitch one row below the stitches outside the marker onto the left needle and knit it as if it was a stitch.
Directions:
With MC and smaller needles, CO 68 st. Work 8 rows of k2, p2 ribbing. Switch to larger needles.
Sweater body:
Row 1 (RS): in seed stitch throughout, work12 st (right front), pm, work 10 st (sleeve), pm, work 24 st (back), pm, work 10 st (sleeve), pm, work 12 st (left front).
Rows 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 and 12: slipping markers, work seed stitch to end.
Rows 3, 5, 7, 9, and 11: *work seed stitch to marker, m1, slip marker, m1, rep from *
Row 13: work seed stitch to first marker, m1, slip marker, m1, knit across arm stitches, increasing as follows: k3, (m1, k2) 7 times, m1, k3. m1, slip marker, work seed stitch across back, m1, slip marker, m1, repeat arm increases, m1, slip marker, m1, work seed stitch to end.
Row 14: Slipping markers, work seed stitch on right front, back, and left front, and work stockinette (purl) on sleeves.
Row 15: switch to stockinette stitch on entire sweater body. Continue to work raglan increases as established.
Row 19: begin fair isle pattern on sweater fronts as charted.
Row 37: Stop raglan increases and divide sleeves as follows: (continuing fair isle chart pattern) work to first marker, remove marker and slip arm stitches onto a piece of scrap yarn, remove marker, continue knitting across back, remove marker and slip arm stitches onto a piece of scrap yarn, work to end (continuing fair isle chart pattern).
Rows 38-end: work in stockinette, continuing fair isle pattern as charted.
When fair isle pattern is complete, work 4 more rows stockinette, then switch to smaller needles and work 8 rows of k2, p2 ribbing. BO.
Sleeves:
Place arm stitches on larger needle, being sure right side will be worked first.
Rows 1, 3, 5, and 7: working in stockinette, space out two decreases in each of these rows so that decreases do not line up with one another vertically (to make decreases as invisible as possible).
Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8: purl.
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: p1, dec, p to 3 stitches before end, dec, p1.
Work 9 rows stockinette, and decrease in tenth row as in row 10.
Work 9 rows stockinette, and decrease in tenth row as in row 10.
Work 8 rows stockinette.
Switch to smaller needles and work 8 rows of k2, p2 ribbing. BO.
Button bands:
Using smaller needles, pick up 74 stitches along left front. Work 8 rows k2, p2 ribbing and BO. Pick up 74 stitches along right front and work 3 rows k2, p2 ribbing. In next row, make buttonholes as follows: work 2 st, YO, k2tog (or p2tog, depending on place in the ribbing). Repeat (YO, k2tog) buttonholes evenly spaced along band, making another buttonhole before last 2 stitches of row. Work 4 more rows of k2, p2 ribbing and BO.
Finishing:
Sew sleeve seams. Weave in all loose ends and block. Sew buttons to match buttonholes.
6 days ago
9 comments:
Oooh, thank you for posting the pattern! There's at least one little girl I know who would look adorable in this.
So very cute! Thank you for sharing with us.
Wow - It's beautiful :) - I love the Narnia sweater you based it on, and I have to say, I think that it came out just lovely!! Thanks for sharing your great pattern with the world - I may have to make it for my neice!!
That is one of the cutest sweaters I have ever seen... love the colors, love the style, love the details.
I will definitely give it a try, as soon as I get the yarn for it!
Great job!
I have sprung off from this idea. Something will come of it son I hope. I have completed one front and am stuck in the mass of stockinette stitch that will be the back. It is a gift and she will love it, thank you for the idea.
just found this pattern via the peach blossom one and this is soooo adorable! glad I found your blog!
I love this sweater and want to knit it. Your directions say to cast on 70 and rib for eight rows. The dividing instructions add up to 68 stitches. What do I do with the other two stitches?
Good call, Martha! There is an error in the pattern. You should in fact cast on 68 stitches and increase as specified. But if you have already cast on 70 stitches and done your eight rows of ribbing, just put 11 instead of 10 stitches in each "arm" section -- as I recall the sleeves could have been a little wider anyway. Then the fair isle directions and everything for the fronts will stay the same.
I just discovered your blog, and I am blown away by how lovely your knitting is. Thank you for sharing such a marvelous pattern. It's going to the top of the Ravelry queue!
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